In the rich tapestry of LGBTQ+ history, the art of flagging has played a significant role in allowing individuals to subtly signal their identity and preferences. This practice extends beyond mere clothing choices; it’s about the messages conveyed through these choices. Fashion historian Madeleine Seys, hailing from Adelaide University, delves into the historical significance of fashion within the queer community, tracing its roots back to the 1800s. At a time when homosexuality was criminalized, fashion became a vital tool for LGBTQ+ people in Australia to connect with like-minded individuals and build their communities.
“Flagging,” as it’s known, originated with queer men in the 19th century. It involved using specific colors, objects, or symbols to discreetly communicate one’s queerness to others within the community. The adoption of “the hanky code,” where individuals would display differently colored handkerchiefs in their back pockets to signify various kinks and preferences, is one example of this practice. Dr. Seys highlights that flagging not only allowed queer individuals to find each other but also served as a means to deflect threats from the outside world.
Is Flagging Still a Thing Today?
While the hanky code may have fallen out of favor among young gay individuals, another emblematic item has taken its place: the carabiner. During explorations of op shops in Sydney’s Newtown, it was revealed that many queer people, especially women, still employ the humble carabiner as a subtle signal of their sexuality to potential love interests. The use of such objects, akin to the historical handkerchief code, persists as a way for LGBTQ+ individuals to express themselves and find like-minded partners.
For many, clothes remain a crucial tool for self-expression. Whether it’s Seren, who humorously dubs the carabiner as a “carbonara,” or Natasha, who dresses to appeal to the “female gaze,” clothing choices continue to be a means of signaling one’s queerness. Additionally, other modern cues like unique hairstyles and piercings play their part in this non-verbal communication.
The Argument Against Flagging
However, it’s worth noting that for some young LGBTQ+ individuals, dressing in a particular way to flag their queerness has become less important. Many, like Sammy, express a sense of comfort in their own identity, no longer feeling the need to overtly broadcast their sexuality through clothing. They embrace fluidity in their style, focusing more on personal preferences rather than catering to specific expectations.
In a more LGBTQIA+-friendly environment, such as Sydney’s inner west, where queerness is widely accepted, the need for flagging one’s sexuality becomes less significant. The ability to openly express and embrace one’s identity has led to a shift in how LGBTQ+ individuals communicate their queerness. As times change, so too does the role of fashion in the ever-evolving LGBTQ+ narrative.
Wessley, for example, chooses to use his style to express aspects of his identity that extend beyond his queerness. As an individual of Torres Strait Islander heritage, he incorporates pieces from queer First Nations artist Aretha Brown into his wardrobe, adding depth and political significance to his fashion choices.
In a world where acceptance and diversity continue to be championed, the ways in which LGBTQ+ individuals choose to express their identity are as diverse as the community itself. Flagging remains a part of this multifaceted journey, offering a historical lens through which we can appreciate the evolution of LGBTQ+ expression through fashion.