Turkish oil wrestling has been celebrated for over 650 years at the annual festival of Kirkpinar, where male-bonding and physicality take center stage. This year marks the 20th anniversary of author Aydin Bengisu and photographer Ron Amato’s journey to the festival, where they captured the rich history and tradition of the sport.
Amato’s artfully crafted photographs showcase the modern yet timeless atmosphere of the event. He captures not only the brawny exterior of the wrestlers but also the open and unaffected physicality that initially takes one aback. The warmth and ease with which the athletes touch each other may be confusing for westerners, but it represents the brotherhood and camaraderie that Kirkpinar embodies.
The event is held in Edirne, a city located near the Bulgarian and Greek borders in Western Thrace. Once known as Adrianopolis, the city was founded by the Roman emperor Hadrian around A.D.125 and was also the capital of the Ottoman Empire before the conquest of Constantinople in 1453. Although the original Kirkpinar took place in present-day Greece, it now occurs on the island of Sarayiçi, located in the middle of a river.
The wrestlers, shirtless and oiled, arrive at the stadium ready to compete in one of the eleven categories, classed by height rather than weight, from toddlers up to the forty-member pehlivan (hero in Farsi), or warrior status. They begin with the practice called Yağlama, applying diluted olive oil from large copper urns to each other’s bare bodies from head to toe. While the oil serves to both establish an even playing field and complicate the act of wrestling, wrestlers also say that it helps to heal their wounds more quickly. There is an official Yağcı (oiler) who helps with the process.
The rules are few, save for the “40 minutes per match” limit. The wrestlers compete until one is pinned or one’s chest is thrown in the air. So inserting a hand or an arm into an opponent’s leather pants is actually a strategy. The importance of tightening one’s pants is as much a key to victory as being able to toss an opponent. A younger champion who defeats an older champion kisses the elder’s hand.
Amato’s photographs beautifully capture the essence of Kirkpinar, honoring the rich history of oil wrestling in its current incarnation. From wrestlers crying in defeat to showing off their muscles, he catches every unexpected moment.
In essence, Turkish oil wrestling is more than just a sport. It represents brotherhood in its truest sense, where men come together to celebrate tradition, physicality, and camaraderie.